The Desert Part 1

A long nine-hour drive from Ouzoud to Rissani, long but stunning and surreal. We arrived in the dark and the place was an absolute Gong Show - people and cars and bikes fucking everywhere. The locals have torn down or defaced all signs to Merzouga, hoping it will force you to hire a 'faux guides'. This dude on a bicycle followed us around so we fucked with him a little bit, driving around in circles as he followed and followed and followed and never gave up. Dude beat us at our own game. Called for directions, then got totally lost and had to ask for directions at two different Teleboutiques. Finally made it to Merzouga, met up with Hassan and followed him to the auberges. We drank beers, ate couscous (courtesy of the French neighbour whose husband killed himself three years ago) and tagines and smoked superb hashish with their friend Hachim. Wonderful people all around. Hassan, Ali and Omar are brothers and there are six other siblings in their clan- four more boys and two girls. Hachim has fourteen siblings. It is all about family down here. Strength and prosperity in numbers, as practical as it is beautiful.